To properly protect your skin from the sun, it is important to first determine your skin type. We used to do this using the Fitzpatrick Scale, which categorizes skin as types I through VI. Meanwhile, the Monk Skin Tone Scale is commonly used, an inclusive approach to skin types.

Fitzpatrick scale: not included

By far the most well-known method of determining skin type is the Fitzpatrick scale, developed in 1975 by dermatologist Thomas B. Fitzpatrick as a tool to measure the response of different skin types to UV light. Here the focus was on white skin, and although types V and VI were later added to the scale, the method is limited.

Dark skin is determined in only two of the six Fitzpatrick categories, leaving groups underrepresented in research, medical applications and technology. In addition, the Fitzpatrick scale links skin responses to ethnicity, leading to simplifications such as “Asian skin” or “African skin.” Also, according to Fitzpatrick, skin tones (types V-VI) would never burn, but sun damage and skin cancer also occur in people of color.

Fortunately, there are now more inclusive methods of determining skin type, such as the Monk Skin Tone Scale (MST).

Monk Skin Tone Scale (MST).

Working with Google, sociologist Ellis Monk developed the Monk Skin Tone Scale (MST) method in 2023 to reflect diversity within and between populations. The MST is designed with 10 levels instead of six, with a better distribution across light, medium and dark skin tones. The Monk method helps reduce bias, including in AI applications, where good representation of skin tones is essential for facial recognition and imaging, in research and product development.

Unlike the Fitzpatrick Scale, which takes sun reaction as its starting point, the Monk Scale gives no direct indication of how quickly your skin burns or tans. Still, you can use it as a visual aid to estimate your skin tone to better adjust your sun protection.

Determining your own skin type

Determine your own skin type using the Monk Skin Tone Scale.

• Compare your uncovered skin (in daylight) to the 10 MST shades (online or via color charts).
• Write down the number closest to your skin tone (1 = lightest, 10 = darkest).

Skin type and risk of sunburn

• MST 1-3 (light): High risk of burning, little to no tanning.
• MST 4-6 (medium): Moderate risk of burning, may tan.
• MST 7-10 (dark): Smaller chance of burning, skin may develop pigmentation and damage may be less visible, but risk of skin cancer remains.

Important to know

• The MST does not provide a definitive answer about how your skin reacts to sun, but it does help you be more aware of your skin tone and possible risks.
• Darker skin tones (MST 7-10) are less likely to burn but are not immune to UV damage or skin cancer.
• Light skin tones (MST 1-3) are most at risk for acute burning and subsequent skin aging.

Tips skin type and sun protection

• Replace sunscreen annually: SPF loses 50% of its effectiveness after 12 months.
• Use mineral filters: for example, emerginC Sun SPF+50 with zinc oxide.
• Apply every 2 hours: Regardless of your skin type.
• Avoid the sun between 12-15 hours.

Skin type advice

Are you unsure about your skin type and which sun protection is best for you? Our skin therapists will be happy to give you personal advice. You can schedule a free consultation at one of the Ivy Clinic locations in Amsterdam, Amstelveen, Den Bosch or Westervoort. Do you need advice about skin care products right now? Then do the Quick Skin Scan on the website: Ivy’s Quick Skin Scan..